The Canadian Rockies Part I

When I thought about writing a a blog on the Canadian Rockies, I was a bit hesitant at first because back then in 2018, I didn’t have a camera and I took the photos of this trip with my iPhone 5. I was dabbling in landscape photography. Then I thought, I had a great experience, why not share it with others and document this beautiful trip for myself.

Like many other travel decisions that happen just like that, I decided to go to the Canadian Rockies 1 week before my flight to Calgary. It was time. I had vicariously gleaned pleasure from other people’s photos and videos for a while and I wanted to see the place for myself. Unfortunately none of my friends could accompany me. I had to either go it all alone or find a travel companion. Having travelled alone for many years here and there, I knew that sharing the experience with another human had brought me joy. Also in all honesty, I was scared to hike and camp in the grizzly country for the first time all by myself.

Back then, I used to live in Montreal and making reservations for campgrounds in Quebec was not an issue. Naive was I to think that would be the case in Banff and Jasper, where people reserve the campgrounds for the summer as early as 6 months in advance. With hundreds of alpine lakes, numerous hiking trails, and diverse wildlife, these parks attract hikers, adventurers, nature and animal enthusiasts from all around the globe.

I bought the plane ticket and I started my research that confronted me with overwhelming choices of places to visit. I logged into my couchsurfing account to look for travel companions and found a couple from Slovenia whose travel dates coincided with half of mine. I immediately sent a message and the next day we hopped on a Skype call to see if we were a match. The three of us wanted the same experience and our expectations were perfectly aligned. Bingo, it was a match! Patricija and Žiga made it very easy to share the planning of our adventure.

For a newbie to the Canadian Rockies, I decided to stay at Lake Louise Alpine Center for the first half of my trip that I was alone and leave the camping experience to be shared with my travel companions.

After arriving at Calgary airport I took the bus to Banff and then to Lake Louise Alpine Center. One of the good things about traveling on buses is that I can sit back and enjoy the scenery. I have stayed in many hostels in cities throughout the years but a hostel in the middle of nature was something else. Pro tip: you can get an annual HI membership which provides you with 10% discount on your booking in 3,300 hostels in 64 countries.

After I checked in, I wanted to go to see Lake Louise, one of the most photographed alpine lakes in Canada. Since I was alone in the bear country, my first question at the reception was about bear safety. Banff and Jasper both host black and grizzly bears. For my first hike, I wasn’t courageous enough to hike through the trail and instead walked on the side of the road pigeon-heartedly.

I arrived at Lake Louise in the evening when it was full of people but I was amazed at the milky green colour of the lake. I decided to hike back there the next morning. After a good night’s sleep and a minor jet lag, the next day I borrowed a bear spray from the reception and plucked up the courage to hike the trail that went to the lake. It was early morning and after just a few minutes on the trail, I saw a big grizzly scat which was a bit steaming in fresh air. I swallowed my saliva like Jerry the mouse and started singing. One of the bear safety tips I learned was to make noise while hiking so as not to surprise the animal. I continued my way for an hour, I reached the beautiful lake and continued my way on the shoreline to hike up the Big Beehive Trail which not only passes 2 alpine lakes but also gives a beautiful view of Lake Louise from above. The first lake on this trail is the Mirror Lake.

I told myself that I should have brought my bathing suit with me but as soon as I started regretting, I decided to take a dip in this crystal clear water!

I set up my phone with some rocks for a landscape selfie. It was so refreshing!

I continued my way up to Agnes Lake, which was much bigger than Mirror Lake. Boy, I was filled with joy to see the unreal colours of these alpine lakes. I stayed as long as I could to soak in the beauty of the scenery.

Continuing the hike, there are some switchbacks where you can just slow down and enjoy the view over Lake Agnes before reaching the Big Beehive viewpoint over Lake Louise.

I took my time basking in the sun and marvelling at the beauty of my surrounding. I arrived at the hostel, tired, but happy.

The next morning I woke up early to go to Moraine Lake. The shuttle wouldn’t go earlier than 9 and I just wanted to avoid the crowd. So I stood by the side of the road to hitch a ride. After about 20 minutes and a few cars passing, an Indian family from Zanzibar who were also visiting, gave me a ride. Moraine Lake is very popular and around 7 a.m. it was almost full. So if you decide to visit, make sure to arrive as early as you can.

If Lake Louise milky green and Agnes Lake boasting with emerald green were not enough, Moraine Lake was shining with turquoise blue. This lake was quite cold in July and there was a sign warning of hypothermia for those who were brave enough to dive in.

I walked the Shoreline Trail and saw a few deer feeding on plants. This trail is so peaceful in early morning especially if it’s foggy. When I finished, it started raining. I went to the cafe at the beginning of the trailhead to grab a coffee and wait until the rain stopped. I met 2 Aussie couples in their 60s who were traveling in the rockies for 6 months, hiking and camping. We talked for almost an hour and they gave me some recommendations on the trails and places to camp. One of my joys in life is meeting people who break the ordinary and expected lifestyle. What is expected of you when you get to 60; what is expected of you if you have children or get married. Maybe the right question is What do you expect from yourself when you get to 60? For many years, I had fears of getting old, of not being physically capable to do the things I wanted when I reached a certain age. Then an adventurous French man came to my life and showed me that it’s all in my head and that there are different ways to see the world and paint another image; the image that I wanted. I didn’t have to buy the image that was ready-made.

The Aussie couples wished me luck and encouraged me to go solo even if I couldn’t find anyone to share the hike with. I waited at the trailhead to Sentinel Pass with a sign recommending to hike in a group of 4. After about 10 minutes, I saw 4 women who wanted to start the hike and I asked if I could join them. They accepted me with delight. We talked along the way until we reached Minnestimma Lake.

This lake would make a perfect campsite, so serene and surrounded by majestic mountains.

The hike down was on a narrow snowy ridge. Just as we arrived at the trailhead, it started to rain again. My hiking hosts dropped me at the hostel. As I walked in I noticed a board where people pinned notes for finding a hiking partner. I smiled and realized that I was not alone. I left a note with my number hoping for the best. I had a hearty bison burger and before I went to bed, I received a text from a gal who wanted to join me for the hike to The Plain of Six Glaciers the next morning.

I met Helen at the lobby and we headed towards our adventure. The trail to The Plain of Six Glaciers starts at the end of Lake Louise.

The ridge to the Plain of Six Glaciers is the namesake for this route and its grandeur is truly awe-inspiring.

As I was trudging my way up, I saw a man who was running down the ridge like a mountain goat. Now I should say, for several years, these were not my favourite observations on hikes as they tended to reduce my self confidence. I just stopped and watched him as he faded into a tiny point in the distance, all the while asking myself: How? How do you do that? This is me 4 years ago and now with some yogic wisdom, I know that comparing myself with others doesn’t take me anywhere. I’m a happy slow hiker who acknowledges her strength and weakness.

When we got back down at Lake Louise, my bunions were screaming at me. This was by far the most difficult hike on this trip. I took my boots off and stepped onto the cold slippery rock flour beach. Nothing could substitute the soothing of cold water on my feet.

Standing on the rock flour of Lake Louise

We arrived at our hostel, ate and went to bed early since we wanted to see the sunrise on Moraine Lake the next day. We left the hostel at 4:30a.m. to arrive in time. Watching the orange rays of sunlight over the lake has been etched in my memory ever since. The complimentary colours of turquoise blue and orange, the mountain, the freshness of morning air, made this experience quite unique.

**Moraine Lake in the Valley of the Ten Peaks**

Helen and I had our morning tea in front of this unforgettable landscape and headed for a walk along the shoreline. After that, we said goodbye and I headed towards Calgary to meet my new travel companions at the car rental for the rest of the trip.